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Why Not Just Throw Your Hands Up And Go Grunge?

2/13/2013

3 Comments

 
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So why am I advocating grunge fashion? 


Aside from the prevalence of grunge-inspired fashions seen on the Spring 13 runways, the proliferation of mismash fashion currently on display during New York A/W 13 fashion week, and all the fashion magazines, like Style.com, touting how to get the "look", I'm not advocating to Go Grunge. 


There seems to be a relatively disheartening lack of core brand identity currently on display in the fashion industry.  It seems either we have lost our way or we are desperately searching for a way.  I have not yet determined which end is up, but what I do know is that the "way" begins with "not" being afraid to identify with a core consumer base.  Whether you are designing and branding to a youth-oriented, a mature consumer, particular ethnic group, or socio-economic status clientele, you should do so confidently and unapologetically.  Fashion is not about being politically correct.  


It's about answering the call and desire of our specific, defined target consumer.  If you, either as  designer or a brand, are not going to trust your consumer and design clothes that "shout" out your design aesthetic and identity, then heck, you may as well just throw up your hands and Go Grunge.

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Dries Van Noten, Paris Fashion Week, Spring 2013
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Philip Lim, New York Fashion Week, Spring 2013
Grunge fashion gained popularity in Seattle, Washington during the 1990s.  It was an anti-fashion movement born from the disenchantment of the youth population who were struggling with the economic hardships of the time.  Grunge is predominantly identified with plaid, cotton flannel shirts "artfully" tied around the waist or worn over a baggy cotton tee-shirt...but other than the ubiquitous cotton flannel, plaid shirt, there is no true constant identifier for grunge.  It's primarily in the attitude...dark, edgy, with an overarching "drop-out" demeanor.  Sounding familiar?  Based on what I've seen overall on the A/W 13 runways...the sense of despair, lost resignation, and abandonment (not in a good way) has definitely struck a cord for me.

Designer grunge fashion is always so laughable because grunge is not based on luxury fabrics, specialized design details, and sophisticated cuts, but rather based on comfort fabrics and shapeless or destroyed clothing.  Grunge is a mismatch of patterns and silhouettes.  Although trending is the assemblage of varying fabrics, patterns, and textures for 2013-2014, this trend is born from a sophisticated understanding of aesthetically mixing textures and/or patterns to reinvent a look, not destroy the integrity of the design.  
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Elie Saab, Spring Couture 2013
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Donna Karan, New York Fashion Week, A/W 13
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Kaufman Franco, New York Fashion Week, A/W 13
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Thakoon Addition RTW Fall 2013-Assemblage
Fashion is about taking chances, having a stance, and not being afraid to make a statement even if it only makes sense to your core consumer..."standing by" your brand identity.  Why do you think designer brands like Burberry, Chanel, and Calvin Klein have remained successful throughout the years? 

I'm not saying not to invest in a few grunge-inspired pieces in your product line development or buy plan.  Grunge inspiration is a definite trend and speaks to a particular consumer market...one that is a lot younger, possibly just entering college or the job market with quite a bit less cash to spend on designer and luxury items.  Grunge can even be fun to explore as a visual merchandising concept or theme for a more mature, upscale market who may have fond memories of their "grungier" days and so think it may be fun to bring a little plaid, cotton flannel, stud details, or mismash into their weekend wardrobe.

What I am saying is, "Designers and merchandisers, please, stop trying to please everyone and focus on pleasing your core customer."  Make sure your product line speaks to their specific needs, of course, incorporate trend as appropriate, but don't Go Grunge if it doesn't make sense to your shopping audience.

I would love to continue this discussion.  Leave me a comment or contact me directly.  Fashion Freelance Works! Find out how I can work for you by submitting your contact information on this website.
3 Comments
el jordon
2/14/2013 12:25:53 am

What exactly are you trying to accomplish? I know there is a grunge market out there but I am not aware of how large it is. You just want to chat about it? I have seen them making grunge designer gowns as recently as the music awards. If you can make a market on your grunge blong and reach designers I can develop a grunge designer line. El Jordon eljordonintl@gmail.com

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Jaye-Fashion Speaks link
2/18/2013 06:13:50 am

El Jordan:

Thanks for your comment...it's a musing and so I am only sharing my thoughts and perspective regarding the rather lackluster showings at the A/W 13 NYFW. Having lived and dressed through the first wave of grunge fashion back in the late 80s and early 90s, I'm a fan of grunge. I actually had the great fortune many years ago of sitting right across Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love with their new baby girl in a coffeehouse in Athens, GA. A very cool experience which made me a even bigger fan of Grunge, lol. Grunge design has been around far longer than the music awards with one of the first designer collections showing on the New York Fashion Week Runway back in 1992. Marc Jacobs, who is the current darling of NYFW, was one of the first designers to show a grunge-inspired collection back in 1992 http://nymag.com/nymetro/shopping/fashion/12544/index2.html. The press loved the collection, but buyers weren't convinced their customers would pay designer price for merchandise that was basically meant to look as if found in thrift-stores or as hand-me-downs...and so the collection was not so much of a commercial success. Designers, of course, are constantly looking for inspiration either via popular culture, music, technological trends, etc. and these inspirations typically turn into collections which not only speak to the current times (zeitgeist), but also pushes "us" a bit forward, inspires the buyers and consumers alike...creating interest, buzz, and most importantly, sales. As I stated in the post, there is a market for Grunge...it just doesn't belong on the runway, marketed and merchandised as designer and luxury. Love hearing readers thoughts and feeback. Please keep sharing.

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Mariah J link
3/12/2021 01:40:31 pm

Great post thankkyou

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