Yes, Dior’s Fall 09 collection depicts women dressed in the Orientalism, hobble skirts reminiscent of Poiret’s reign on Paris fashion during the turn of the 20th century, but the true testimony is the overt act of rebellion shown in a collection that draws its inspiration from the bastion of upper crust women whose primary role was to remind the lower strata of society what they had not.
Poiret has been touted a fashion revolutionary for his part in freeing women from corsets and giving them freedom of movement with his “harem” pantaloons and “lampshade” tunic creations…although, many argue that he took steps back(no pun intended) with the hobble skirt invention. He made a straight, tubular dress in 1908 that became known as the Directoire.
In a time of rapid class stratification caused as a result of the recession, designers have to make hard choices and Dior has decided to step up, instead of down the ladder. This is understood as Dior is a design house that is historically associated with being extravagent and luxurious in a time of thrift. After all, it was Christian Dior who dared to shrug his shoulder at the war-time restrictions regarding fabric usage; creating a new bell-shaped look for women that was lavish in its use of fabric. Dior infamously used 20 yards of fabric for his New Look creations.